Fall 2022 Our long-awaited trip has begun. Here at the Peaks of Otter campground along the Blue Ridge Parkway, there are no hook-ups, no showers, and almost no level campsites nor connectivity. There are also almost no people. For those who can make do, a site should always be available. Reservations are tricky due to the leveling issue. Avoid sites closest to the lake because these sites are also closest to a through road and its traffic noise. Although the campground itself has been neglected, the park is worth a visit for its scenery and trails. The lodge has a restaurant and there’s a free shuttle around the park, with a $15 shuttle up one of the peaks to a trailhead.
Harpers Ferry and Frederick Maryland are stops on our way to Greenbrier State Park in western Maryland. (Forget about parking an RV near downtown Harpers Ferry. Park at the Visitors’ Center and take a shuttle.) Greenbrier, popular for day use, has a good campground with four loops including one (Cedar loop) with electric hook-ups. Campsites near the back of the loops are closer to the trails, one of which leads to the lake with a dam and swimming beach. We’re staying indoors more than usual because of the heat, but we can use the down time after all of the preparations leading up to this trip.
In northern Pennsylvania, we stay at Tompkins — a Corps of Engineers campground. Typical of COE facilities, this is a well-designed and well-maintained campground, with the exception of the bath houses. The beach and boat launch are designated for campers only although there’s no gate to prevent day use. From here we begin the more interesting part of this journey, starting with Robert Treman state park in the Finger Lakes region of NY and continuing through the Adirondacks, the Gaspe’ peninsula, New Brunswick, PEI, Nova Scotia, and returning via New England. Photos soon!
After visiting the Corning Glass Museum (worth a stop; not to be confused with the Corningware company), we reach Robert Treman state park. It lives up to its reputation! First touring the three-story mill, we then hike the one-mile loop trail around the upper gorge. It’s reminiscent of Watkins Glen without quite the same grandeur.
The campground is located in the lower section of the park along with the swimming area and lower falls. To our dismay, we find that the combination of hot weather, thick campfire smoke (?), and limited generator use in a no-hookup campground is too uncomfortable, and we decide to move to another park the next day. Before leaving in the morning, we check out the lower falls. Glad we did!
In fact it’s irresistible …..
On the northeastern shore of Seneca Lake lies Sampson State Park. A former military training base, it retains some features consistent with its origins. There are a large number of campsites here so we were able to get a reservation on short notice. It’s an easy walk to the lake, with a path leading along the shore to a beach and a particularly nice marina. There’s good bike-riding. The main downside is the distance of the electric posts from the campsites — 60′ on our first site; 40′ on our second. It’s here that we experience a nip in the air for the first time this trip.
En route to the Adirondacks we spend two nights with a Boondockers Welcome host in Boonville, NY. Great place to hang out. On to Rollins Pond tomorrow!
Now this is a really nice spot — Rollins Pond. Located behind Fish Creek Pond campground, the Rollins campground is quieter with less traffic. There are no hook-ups and no connectivity but the sites are spacious and wooded with most on the waterfront. One day we bike through the extensive, hilly campground and another day paddle on the lovely lake. The scenery in the Adirondacks is spectacular.
While in Plattsburgh, NY for groceries and internet use, we submit the ArriveCAN document required within three days before entry into Canada. Then we drive a very scenic route to Lake Carmi, Vermont. Typical of Vermont state parks, the sites here are very spacious but have no hook-ups. We’ve had variable internet speed. Showers cost fifty cents for five minutes. This park is off the beaten path, with some waterfront sites and extensive hiking and biking trails nearby. The very cool town of Saint Albans is about a half hour drive.
Border crossing day! We’re both nervous and perhaps this accounts for the inauspicious beginning. Autumn decides it’s time for The Great Escape — while we’re at the dump station! She goes out the coach door while I’m shaking rugs and she dives under the van. Apparently she’s overwhelmed; nothing familiar in sight. She begins to cry and eventually comes out about 10′ away from me. When I bend down and ask her to come to me, she does. Thank goodness! Later in the day we miss a turn, ending up at the wrong border crossing where we make a U-turn as we approach. However, we have actually been in Canada and now we’re routed into the US station. The officials are not amused but ultimately allow us to return to the US. When we finally reach the correct border station, the process goes smoothly (with Tim addressing the agent in French). Tim offers to provide documentation of Autumn’s vaccination status and the agent replies, “I’ll trust you on that. You obviously have your act together.”
Quebec province doesn’t provide road signs in English and everything is now metric as well, creating some disorientation for us. That said, there are virtually no billboards along the rural highways. Towns are located at enough distance from the highway that they can’t be seen, so the scenery for today’s drive is made up almost exclusively of trees. We spend two nights at the farm of a Boondockers Welcome host near Trois Rivieres then on to Riviere du Loup where we stay at the De La Pointe Municipal campground overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway. A pleasant stroll downhill to the rocky beach and adjacent park morphs into a longer-than-expected walk through a coastal community following a route defined by placards describing sites of interest. The homes we pass are attractions in themselves — creatively designed, with appealing color schemes and profuse gardens.
A longish drive brings us to Phare Cap Chat (Cape Cat Lighthouse) where we camp within 50 yards of the lighthouse overlooking the St. Lawrence. An unexpected delight as darkness falls: ghosts moving through the trees on two sides of us. The morning is a blend of chill wind and whitecaps and soaring seabirds. An extraordinary walk takes us first along the cliff top and then down to the isolated beach. Tomorrow to Forillon National Park!
Definitely worth the drive! Forillon, a Canada National Park at the point of the Gaspe’ peninsula, is not only awesomely beautiful; it offers visitors many enriching experiences. Highlights of our stay include our bike ride along the north coast – between mountains and sea – and our walk along the south coast between various heritage sites. The north campground, Des-Rosiers, is within easy walking distance of the pebble beach. (We didn’t visit the south campground.) Be aware that Parks Canada charges a daily admission fee in addition to campsite fees. As an alternative, an annual Discovery pass can be purchased. In our case, with five Canada national parks on our itinerary, the pass is more economical. Caution: the province of Quebec calls its provincial parks “national parks” and also sells an annual pass to cover admission fees. This pass can not be used for Parks Canada admission and vice versa. Forillon, while located in Quebec province, is part of the Parks Canada system.
To say that the drive along the coast from Forillon toward New Brunswick is scenic would be a great understatement. Gaspe’ bay alone is breathtaking. When we arrive at Sugarloaf Provincial Park it’s nearly empty. Known for its bike and ski facilities, including a chair lift for both, it’s very quiet when the lift isn’t running (Monday through Wednesday). Our campsite is wooded, level, and spacious with interesting trails nearby. In the nearby town is a fish market where we buy fresh, delicious salmon.
Kouchibouguac National Park is our next stop. Despite this being Labor Day weekend with a full campground, it doesn’t feel crowded. We can barely see the campers on either side of us through the gently sunlit forest. There are flat hiking and biking trails, including along the Kouchibouguac river and the Northumberland Strait. The mosquitoes here ignore my experiment with vinegar as a repellent. During a long walk on beautiful Kellys beach we mingle with Canadians who are enjoying their favorite pastime – sun worship. From here we head for Prince Edward Island.
Prince Edward Island requires a toll when visitors leave the island, and this factors into the choice of routes for our trip. Departing by the Confederation Bridge would result in a toll, for our two-axle van, of $50 CA or $40 US. By ferry, at the east end of the island, it would be far more because we’re oversize. Traveling from Kouchibouguac across the bridge to PEI, we stop at Gateway Village for a decent map (sorry AAA). On busy days, this commercial area can become quite congested. Better to keep an RV on the outskirts. We drive to Brudenell River Provincial Park – a pretty spot with a decent hiking trail and access to the Confederation Trail, a bicycle trail throughout PEI.
A day trip to Greenwich Dunes, part of PEI National Park, is another exceptional experience with a roughly three mile roundtrip trail to the beach. The scenery becomes more and more impressive as the hike progresses.
We spend a night at a Harvest Host farm in Mt. Stewart and depart with an armful of fresh potatoes, tomatoes, and eggs. En route to Cavendish, another section of PEI National Park, we visit the setting for Anne of Green Gables. This is also a Parks Canada property and our annual pass covers admission.
Camping at Cavendish is what camping is meant to be: the ocean nearby with its delightful scents and sounds; waves rolling in; a steady breeze; a knock-your-socks-off sunset followed by a full orange moon; beach walks with surprises; a scenic bike ride down the coast.
Traveling from PEI toward Cape Breton Island along the scenic Northumberland Shore, we stop at Caribou-Munroe Provincial Park where we have a campsite in a large field overlooking the strait. There’s also a wooded loop with a pretty path to the beach. This is a convenient campground for those traveling to or from PEI by ferry. When planning this trip we opted to include only the Northumberland and Cape Breton regions of Nova Scotia due to time constraints, with intentions to return in the future to see more of Nova Scotia (which we visited several years ago – Halifax is a delightful city).
Continuing east with a stop in the multicultural (First Nation, Acadian, Scottish) town of Antigonish, we ultimately reach Whycocomagh PP. There are four (steep!) trails from the campground up Salt Mountain, which overlooks St. Patrick’s Channel, part of the Bras d’Or Lake system.
The Gaelic College in St. Ann’s is worth a visit and includes demonstrations in kilt-making and fiddle-playing. This is followed by a stay with Boondockers Welcome hosts at their lovely lakefront property. Once again we’re grateful for this program and the generosity of the hosts.
We reach the northeastern-most campground of our trip: Broad Cove in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The camping loop with hook-ups is a fairly open field (other loops are more wooded and private), with the laundromat being a welcome feature at this point. We enjoy walking through various sections of the campground to reach the near-empty beach, surrounded by cliffs, and then returning along a trail beside Warren Brook. The following day we hike inland to peaceful Lake Warren after debating how seriously to take the sign warning of coyotes. Would our hiking poles fend off an attack?
Just when all of the enchanting coves and soaring cliffs are beginning to get boring, along comes Hurricane Fiona. We’re scheduled to be in Cheticamp, on the western side of Cape Breton Highlands NP, when Cape Breton is forecast to take a direct hit from the storm. Time to get out of Dodge. Most of the following two days are spent driving as far as Fredericton, New Brunswick with an overnight stop at Amherst Shore PP, appealing enough to visit again. The damage to Nova Scotia and the coastline of New Brunswick will require years to repair, where repair is possible. In hindsight, we should have extended our evacuation route beyond the reach of tropical storm force winds. Several trees fell in the campground where we stayed, Mactaquac. In one case, a tree fell right between an SUV and the camping trailer it had been towing, with no damage to either.
So here we are in Mactaquac with several days to go before we’re due at Fundy NP in New Brunswick followed by Acadia NP in Maine – reservations we don’t want to cancel. Fortunately Mactaquac has electric hookups and connectivity, although many of the campsites are far from level. Nearby are a couple of trails and two small marinas. Exploring Fredericton reveals a surprisingly attractive city, especially along the vibrant waterfront of the St. John River. Here are historic buildings, lovely views, relaxing parks, and trails for walking and biking. There’s also a pedestrian bridge across the St. John to the northern section of Fredericton. Fall colors are beginning to take the stage.
Time to head for Fundy. But wait! Our reservations have been canceled due to storm damage from Fiona. Thankfully, we’re rescued by two Boondockers Welcome hosts in the New Brunswick province – one near St. John and one near St. Stephen – who treat us like old friends.
Crossing the border into the US bears no resemblance to our smooth experience entering Canada. We wait in a long line for about ninety minutes because there’s only one agent processing people. When it’s finally our turn, he’s particularly interested in the food we have with us. We put Autumn in her carrier so that he can come inside and inspect our refrigerator, taking our tomatoes and all of our eggs. In advance of border crossings in both directions, we researched the restrictions and Canadian rules were much clearer.
Taking the inland route to Lamoine Beach SP on the Maine coast, the remoteness of this part of the state is apparent. There are road signs suggesting that we’ve reached a town but there’s no town. Good thing we bought diesel in Calais.
Lamoine is located on the mainland across Frenchman Bay from Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park. During this time of year (October) it’s a first-come-first-served campground with plenty of available sites and lovely views over the Bay. In the woods, the slanted sunlight dances on birch bark as yellow leaves rain down. The fall color here is farther along than it was in Canada. ???
Anyone who has tried to get campground reservations at Acadia National Park understands the challenge. Given that much of our trip was booked six months in advance, and Acadia only opens campground reservations two months in advance (with a lot of competition for sites), some finagling was required. In addition to our constantly evolving Itinerary document, I maintain a Key Dates & Actions document containing reminders, notes, and a schedule of dates when campsite reservations may be made.
Acadia National Park is bucket-list worthy. We stay at both Schoodic Woods (with hookups) and Blackwoods (without). While Mt. Desert Island is incredibly beautiful (but crowded, especially when a cruise ship is in the harbor), the Schoodic area is more subtle and peaceful. Both campgrounds are pleasant and well-managed although neither has showers. We take advantage of the Island Explorer free bus system for sightseeing. In fact, RVs are not permitted between Schoodic campground and Schoodic Point, where wind, rocks, and waves interact in dramatic fashion. Within walking distance of the point is the Schoodic Institute, a former US Navy radio post now a museum and educational facility. There are a number of ferries in the Acadia area that we hope to include in another visit to this exceptional part of the country.
Appreciating Maine’s gorgeous October leaf color, we continue south to Bradbury Mountain SP near Freeport. Having spent too much time at LLBean we arrive after dark – not a good idea at a campground. We have insufficient time (only one full day) to enjoy this park and we plan to return.
Greenfield SP in New Hampshire is a pleasant surprise. As beautiful in its understated scenery as Acadia is in its splendor, Greenfield is almost empty during our stay. The New Hampshire state park system has an unusual arrangement. The reservation page may show that a campground season extends through October 31st, but reservations are only available through, for example, September 30th. A request can be submitted for notification if later dates open up. Sometime in August the park system decides whether or not to extend the season. If so, it provides a great opportunity to get an excellent campsite. It’s at Greenfield that I appreciate the value – truly, the essence – of solitary meanderings in the woods.
We spend a day with my sister and brother-in-law, Karen and Jeff, in the charming college town of Williamstown, MA then continue to North-South Lake SP in the New York Catskills. This was a favorite last year and will likely be a stop whenever we travel in this direction.
Continuing southwest toward Rickets Glen SP in PA, we stop at the Steamtown National Historical Site in Scranton. This location warrants more time than we have to spend and we agree to return.
Rickets Glen is off the beaten path but worth a visit. Although the lake and beach area are very nice, the Falls Trail is awesome.
On to Cunningham Falls SP near Catoctin Mountain, MD. We’ve stayed here and at Owens Creek campground in the past. Owens Creek has a shorter season. The Catoctin scenic drive is a must-see, especially when Fall colors are on display.
Another repeat this trip is Big Meadows in Shenandoah NP. The campground is busier this year than last (same time of year) and the deer seem to be avoiding the campground as a result. They can be spotted elsewhere however. This little guy allowed me to approach within fifteen feet and sit on a rock, watching him graze. He was close enough that I could see the beginnings of antler nubs.
Oh no! We’re stuck in the mud! Miles from the nearest rural town, we have arrived at Uncle Joe’s Greenbrier River property after a day of heavy rain. The ground is so soft and wet and slippery that we simply bogged down, spinning our wheels briefly. Although nobody else is on the property we have access to the cabin and outbuildings where we find items to use in our attempt to get out of the mud. Space heaters (to dry the ground and tires), cardboard, carpet remnants, tools, scrap lumber, kitty litter, and our leveling blocks are all applied to the problem. We even deflate the tires, and empty the black and gray tanks into buckets to dump into the cabin toilet, lightening the van’s weight. Alas, nothing works! The mud is just too sticky and slippery for the tires to get any traction. After a strenuous, stressful, and muddy day, we call the “nextdoor” neighbor. Skeeter arrives the next morning, as agreed, and attaches chains from his Chevy Silverado to our tow hitch. Terms like “limited slip differential” are discussed. It takes three tries but finally we’re free. Skeeter declines compensation, saying that he tries to do a good deed for someone each day. Thank you Skeeter!! He shepherds us back to paved roads and Tim and I decide to return to Asheville, one day earlier than planned. What a way to end this trip!
PS: Upon returning home, I find a tick embedded in the back of my upper arm. Tim removes it with needle-nose tweezers, wearing a magnifying visor to get a couple of tiny pieces that remain behind. The trick is not to squeeze the body of the tick during removal. It’s a deer tick, and we’ve been in several states with high Lyme disease. The CDC recommends, when the tick is found early and there are no symptoms, a single prophylactic dose of 200 mg doxycycline hyclate. I have a telemedicine appointment; explain the above; and pick up the prescription all on the same day that the tick is discovered. We’re getting an education! In January, we spend the month camping in Florida; visiting my sisters; and dodging ticks.
June/July 2022 Are you a procrastinator? Then the camping life is for you! With only two months at home and loads of projects before hitting the road again, we don’t have the luxury to procrastinate. House and yard; routine health care; vehicle maintenance; and travel preparations are keeping our noses to the grindstone. Three weeks to go! Because of the competition for campsites, most of our Fall reservations were made in February. A few parks, and most Harvest Hosts and Boondockers Welcome hosts, have shorter booking windows. Acadia National Park, for example, allows reservations only two months in advance. The system I like best is Nova Scotia Provincial Parks. They open reservations in early April for the entire season, dividing their parks into three reservation days. Online at 9 AM Atlantic time, visitors are randomly ushered into a virtual waiting room and informed of the number of people ahead of them and the expected wait. On the first day it was about 4300 people ahead with an estimated 18 minute wait. After 13 minutes I was moved to the reservation page and was able to get all three campgrounds and each campsite I wanted. The second day also went smoothly. So yes, our three-month Fall trip takes us as far as Cape Breton Island via upstate NY, Vermont, the Gaspe’ peninsula, New Brunswick, and PEI, returning through New England, the Catskills, and one of our favorites, Big Meadows at Shenandoah National Park. Not long now!
Below is our Spring 2022 route. Map courtesy of Tim.
Spring 2022 April 13th: We’re four weeks into our 2+ month trip and have averaged three to four days per campground visiting Oconee SP, Calhoun Falls SP, Aiken SP, and Lynches River County park in South Carolina; Cliffs of the Neusse SP, Medoc Mountain SP, and Merchants Millpond SP in North Carolina; Pocomoke River SP and now Susquehanna River SP in Maryland.
Oconee, in northwest South Carolina, is off the beaten path and mostly empty on weekdays off-season. The lake loop gets busy on weekends. This park has many attractive features including the CCC buildings and extensive trails. There had been a recent prescribed burn, and during a hike we could see through the trees a cleared area containing a circular fenced structure. We followed an ATV path to it. Turned out it was a wild pig trap, baited with corn. A complex device, about 20′ in diameter, the entire perimeter could be raised and lowered. It was monitored by a nearby solar-powered camera.
Some campgrounds have a distinct personality and Calhoun Falls, loop 1, is one of them. This is the only campground I’ve seen that has a large sign at the entry, “Rules for Golf Carts”. Indeed, the vast majority of the campsites are full of gear — a 40-50′ travel trailer; a couple of trucks; a golf cart; and trailers for transporting boats, golf carts, bikes, and firewood. We figure these are mostly local folks with only a short distance to travel with all of their toys. Certainly Lake Russell is worth it. Part of the Savannah River system, this lake is relatively quiet and clean thanks to a lack of development. We’re able to launch our inflatable kayak from our campsite and spend a couple of hours daily exploring the lake, which requires a detailed map and navigation markers.
On to Aiken SP where we visited in January and planned to return to paddle the intriguing blackwater Edisto River.
Many parks advertise that they are “hidden gems” but this is truly the case for Lynches River County Park south of Florence, SC. The tiny campground is more than adequate (although there’s no dump station) and well-positioned for campers to walk or bike ride to the main area that includes the “discovery center”, riverfront, and trailheads. Kayaks, with shuttle services, can be rented but call in advance. This park is well-appointed as a children’s summer day camp including a climbing wall and splash pad. These are located elsewhere in the park and don’t detract from the natural environment.
Moving on into North Carolina, Cliffs of the Neusse SP and Medoc Mountain SP are decent but not particularly memorable. Both have rivers and hiking trails. The campsites at Cliffs are fairly spacious, including the sites on the inside of the loop road, and the ones with hook-ups have sewer connections. There are very few campsites with hook-ups on the exterior of the loop because apparently some have been converted into camper cabins. Most of the Medoc Mountain campsites are exposed. On the campground map, several sites appear to be overlooking a creek but this is not the case. If there is a creek, it’s out of sight behind trees and underbrush.
And then there’s Merchants Millpond SP – also in North Carolina but seemingly in another country. The “pond” resembles a remote and endless swamp with blackwater and cypress trees stretching in all directions. Fortunately markers have been placed – barely within sight of each other – to prevent paddlers from becoming hopelessly lost. We paddle to an unoccupied boat-in group campsite; have lunch; and return in a span of about two hours. The LEED-built visitor center is well worth a leisurely tour. Via a .7 mile trail from the visitor center we return to our campground. Although it has neither hook-ups nor a dump station it’s pleasant this time of year. We see only one other occupant and NO mosquitoes. It’s a cool early April and probably not advisable to visit this park in warmer months. The photo below required waiting for the reflection to clear after multiple turtles jumped into the water. Fortunately the gator stayed put.
Crossing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (with propane turned off ) we bypass Chincoteague and Assateague because we’ve visited there before. Our destination this time is Pocomoke River SP in Maryland, another park best experienced in cooler months. Coincidentally there’s a 5K event in the park during our visit and Tim participates. The pleasant day use area includes a small marina with kayaks/canoes for rent through a concessionaire. Nearby Crisfield is where my mother grew up and we take a day trip there. (Maryland has a great Parks program for seniors: 50% off camping fees Sunday – Thursday for a $10 membership fee. Member number is needed when making reservations.)
Susquehanna River SP has a lot to offer, just not its campground which appears to be underfunded. Briars and vines choke the campground; there’s only one operating water spigot; and no washers and dryers remain in the laundry room. However, within the park are many historic buildings and nearby are the Lower Susquehanna Greenway, a 2.5 mile rail trail, and the Conowingo Dam where photographers gather to capture eagles hunting for fish.
Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site is adjacent to French Creek SP in Pennsylvania and for us is the main attraction. At French Creek, there’s a nice day use area featuring a lake; a second “fishing” lake; and rocky trails. The campground is so-so with narrow, parallel driveways for parking RVs and trailers. It seems to have been designed with tents in mind because the picnic tables and fire rings are 20 – 30′ back from the driveways. We take a day trip to Valley Forge, returning to discover that our leveling blocks are missing. Eventually our apologetic neighbor brings them over. We’ll leave a sign from now on: “We’ll be back”.
While still in Pennsylvania we stay with a Boondockers Welcome host in Lititz, a small and interesting town north of Lancaster. Then, southwest of Lancaster, we spend a night on a large farm before returning to Maryland.
Catoctin Mountain Park is a favorite of ours (see Fall 2021 notes). With the Owens Creek campground not yet open for the season we stay at the adjacent Cunningham Falls state park. The scenery is lovely here and many campsites have good views. Throughout the park the terrain is steep and rocky, but the hike to Cunningham Falls is worth it.
When camping during shoulder seasons it’s a good idea to watch the weather forecast, especially at higher elevation campgrounds like Deep Creek Lake SP in Maryland’s panhandle. This is a beautiful park with a decent campground, adjacent to a large enchanting lake that seems to change by the minute. “Destination campground” comes to mind here. Outside the park is a single road around the lake, populated by vacation homes and resort attractions. Given the number of boat docks and marinas we saw, waterskiing during summers and weekends could be hazardous. Still, the park itself is somewhat insulated. Here during the week in late April (with temperatures as low as 27F), we’re alone on the trails and uncrowded in the campground.
Continuing west, we spend a few nights at Audra SP in West Virginia. This park is positioned beside a fast-moving, rock-strewn river that’s the main attraction. Many (not very level) campsites are adjacent to the river. Because of the rocks and volume and speed of the water it’s not a safe place for water sports other than fishing. The park seems to have plumbing challenges. The dump station is under repair; the bathhouse toilets seem to clog regularly; and in the laundry room, some draining wash water comes up through the floor drain. That said, we appreciate that at least there is a laundry room. It saves us from an extra stop at a laundromat en route to the next location.
On to the most beautiful place in West Virginia — the property of Tim’s Uncle Joe on the Greenbrier River, with Watoga SP across the river and the Greenbrier Rail Trail passing right through his property. We are greeted by an indigo bunting and the scent of lilac in the air. Toward dusk, two deer arrive to graze on one side of Pard and two geese waddle around on the other side. Away from city lights the stars are magnificent, with repeated bursts of heat lightning adding to the spectacle.
Many more photo ops present themselves at Babcock SP, WV. This is a beautiful park with a nice lake, many trails, and the much-admired grist mill, which is a few miles from the campground. Campsites in the interior of the main loop are very open but those on the outside of the loop road have some trees behind them. We spend some time in the vicinity of the mill where the river, and a lone kayaker, rush past the mill, over a waterfall and then over a dam to disappear around a curve in the distance.
Visiting Tim’s Uncle Joe in Charleston, WV, we stay at the Kanawha State Forest campground. Having stayed here last Fall with exposure to the harrowing road conditions, we decide to rent a car for the back and forth travel between the campground and Charleston. Think 9′ wide lanes with plenty of two-way traffic; chunks of asphalt missing from the road edges (with no shoulder); rock outcroppings; bridge repairs requiring travel over a rough, temporary, one-lane bridge (same as last November, different route). Trust me (and the Kanawha Forest website): you don’t want to bring in a big rig to this campground. Our RV is 25’Lx8’Wx10.5’H and we were lucky to get in and out without incident.
The campground at Carter Caves SP in Kentucky has a similar atmosphere to the one mentioned above at Calhoun Falls SP in South Carolina, but the campsites at Carter Caves are closer together. Being there on a weekend in May doesn’t help. The campground is packed full of people, big rigs, trucks, dogs, golf carts, and trailers (for bringing the golf carts, bikes, and fire wood). Campfires are smoldering most of the day and evening. That said, the geology of the park is spectacular. We decide not to participate in any group cave tours given Covid. Two caves open for self-guided tours are said to be ankle-deep in water so we pass. There are numerous trails, however, accessible from the campground and including some awesome features.
[Camping in Kentucky in May is probably not a great idea. Heavy pollen is making us both uncomfortable — irritating our eyes, noses, and throats. Wearing a mask outside is somewhat helpful. In May, tree pollen season can overlap with grass pollen season, or perhaps Kentucky bluegrass has its own potent variety?]
We return to our original campsite at Holly Bay campground on the Laurel River lake in Daniel Boone National Forest, Kentucky. (See April, 2021 entry.) Launching our kayak from the shore below our campsite, we enjoy paddling/motoring to the nearby dam and along various fingers of the lake. A memorable image during this visit: Tim, Autumn, and I together in the corner stall of the ladies’ restroom one evening. Why? A serious tornado warning. Within minutes we were able to put Autumn in her carrier, grab ID and cell phones, turn on outside lights, and reach the concrete block restroom building. Autumn entertained the other occupants with her running commentary, and we all survived – the tornado AND Autumn.
Pickett SP in Tennessee – one of our favorites – is on our itinerary but a heat wave is expected so we return early to Asheville. There are plenty of projects awaiting us. We’ll need the entire 2.5 months in Asheville to get caught up and prepare for our three month Fall trip to Canada!
28 February 2022 On this day we sadly said goodbye to our very dear Potpurri. Adorable, quirky, charming, mysterious, unpredictable, once-in-a-lifetime Missy Po.
February 2022 We’re now in planning mode for a two-month Spring trip that will take us southeast across South Carolina, then north along the coast, west across northern Maryland, and southwest through West Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee.
January 2022 Winter weather cuts short our planned ten day camping trip, giving us just two days at Aiken SP in South Carolina (where we do a lot of winter camping thanks to the quality of the parks and the user-friendly reservation system). We enjoy hiking and biking and checking out the put-in and take-out locations for the Edisto River canoe trail, intending to paddle it in the near future.
