Fall 2023 Hello Travelin’ Road! Finally. After four challenging months organizing repairs to the Wonder and searching for/buying/outfitting a temporary replacement, our three-month trip has begun. We’re now at the Corps of Engineers Canal campground just north of Land Between the Lakes, having already stayed at Meadow Lake Park near Crossville, TN and Bumpus Mills COE campground at the south end of LBL. Not feeling very ambitious right now, we’re de-stressing from the past few months.
The Ozark National Scenic Riverways park, in Missouri, is certainly worth a visit. During our seven days here, however, the temperature has reached ~100F every day, curtailing our activities. Much-anticipated paddling trips fall by the wayside; not only would we be dangerously hot, but we can’t accept even the slightest risk that the A/C could fail while Autumn is alone. A routine of early morning activities becomes the norm. At Big Spring, we hike about three miles round trip between the campground and the gorgeous, gushing spring. Elsewhere in the Ozark NSR is Alley Mill overlooking Alley Spring – an excursion not to be missed. At Round Spring campground the cave tour more than makes up for the lack of connectivity, managed with daily trips to nearby Echo Bluff state park.
It goes with the territory – ticks, I’m afraid. We’ve seen two inside the van and Tim has a suspicious bite, so we drive thirty miles north to Salem, MO for an urgent care visit. The result is a seven-day prescription for doxycyclene hyclate. According to the attending Nurse Practitioner, common tick-related illnesses in this area include Lyme, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and Alpha Gal. Gotta love this lifestyle in order to accept the inconveniences.
Farther west, we camp at Osage Bluff – a Corps of Engineers campground on the extensive Harry S. Truman lake in Missouri. Lots of boaters camping here.
After a pleasant overnight stay with a Boondockers Welcome host south of Topeka, we travel across Kansas en route to Colorado. There’s not much to say about this part of Kansas.
We’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto. Denver’s congestion and concrete seem light years away from the prior terrain. To the southwest, Bear Creek Lake campground has mountain views in most directions.
A mile uphill from the mile-high city of Denver live our lovable nephew Will and his family, Jennifer, Macy, Cali, Titus, and their endearing dog Dakota. In the St. Mary’s Glacier community, they’re surrounded by awesome scenery and unlimited outdoor opportunities. They treat us to a great hike and a very bumpy jeep ride to Loch Lomond.
http://www.gohikecolorado.com/loch-lomond.html
Traveling west from Denver to Redstone CO the visual treats abound. Colorful rock formations, groupings of dark evergreens, ski communities that blend well with their surroundings – this is a delightful drive. Glenwood Springs beckons (what would it be like to live here?).
Thirty miles south of Glenwood Springs is the small, idyllic town of Redstone. Across a bold creek from the main road, it has gorgeous views in all directions. It also has connectivity at the park, where we hang out for awhile. We google the price of a 2000 s.f. log cabin for sale: $1.3 million! That’s a lot of campground fees, and it’s not even mobile.
Redstone campground has joined our favorites. Most sites are relatively level and private with stunning rock formations all around. There are showers, electric and water hookups, and a pretty creek nearby. At 7500 feet, the nights have been ~40F and the days up to ~75F. Tomorrow we head to Saddlehorn campground within the Colorado National Monument. No hookups. Wind and warm temperatures are forecast.
Plateaus and mesas and buttes, oh my! A small herd of big-horn sheep, with a watchful male on rocks above, greet us when we arrive at the Colorado National Monument. This park encompasses breath-taking territory from Grand Junction to Fruita, Colorado and the only campground is Saddlehorn. It feels like we’re on top of the world here with fascinating rock formations stretching to infinity. I walk through the campground after dark. The temperature is just right; there’s a light breeze; and campers are keeping their voices and lights low. Twinklings of Fruita are in the distance, framed by a plateau. Within the campground there seems to be a communal purr, reminding me of a similar sensation at Cavendish Nat’l. Park on Prince Edward Island. Icing on the cake: the Nishimura comet at dawn; a welcoming visitor center; canyon rim trails, and the annual Tour of the Moon recreational bike ride passing through the park. This is an exceptional location!
Arches National Park is known for its outstanding rock formations but the real treat is the interplay between rocks, clouds, and light. The best way to become acquainted with this park is to camp here, at Devil’s Garden campground, so that trails aren’t crowded and the terrain can be viewed at sunrise and sunset, and at night. Tim says that I outdid myself with this campsite. It has a rare tree shading us from the afternoon sun, and a low ridge to the east that offers gorgeous sunrise views over a vast landscape. (The nearby town of Moab is a disappointing “tourist trap”.)
Part of our trip planning involves scheduling the more visited parks on weekdays, not only to avoid crowds but also to improve our chances for a campsite reservation. After leaving Arches NP, we spend a long weekend at Fremont Indian SP before heading on to Bryce NP. Fremont’s small campground is positioned in a narrow canyon and has the advantages of full hookups, showers, and laundry. We ride bikes along the creek to the visitor center and nearby archeological/cultural sites. Petroglyphs can even be seen within the campground.
Combine awesome scenery; outdoorsy visitors from around the world; well-maintained facilities; and effective crowd management — this is the atmosphere at Bryce Canyon NP. While the visitor center, shuttles and look-out points are busy, the campground is peaceful. Thanks to Bryce’ superior air quality and distance from city lights, the night sky is outstanding.
As we approach Zion NP it becomes obvious that everyone else is too. Much can be said for the park’s geological features and the benefit for so many people to see them. It can’t be a pleasant experience, though, for day visitors to wait through long lines at the entrance only to drive round and round the parking lots waiting for someone to leave, and then wait in lines for the shuttles in order to access most of the park. Zion might do well employing the timed-entry reservation system of Arches NP. In the photo below, zoom in to see the entrance traffic at the base of the cliff and the visitor center parking lot.
Unfortunately, I’m beginning to get sick — not surprising given the close proximity of other travelers at Bryce and Zion. We wore masks on the shuttles and in the visitor centers but we were almost the only ones who did. The symptoms resemble a cold virus and they last a week, at which point Tim follows suit. There’s no good opportunity to get tested for Covid but our vital signs, including blood oxygen, remain normal.
Seen enough photos of rocks? On to the Grand Canyon! In advance of our arrival at the North Rim I wonder whether my reaction might be dulled by all of the visual treats we’ve experienced on this trip. Instead, the first view of the Canyon in my life produces a teary, quivery reaction. Indescribable! The hike to Bright Angel Point is more strenuous than the ¼ mile distance suggests – it’s steep – but the views are worth it. The nearby lodge is well-designed and well-appointed, with a patio combining a view of the Canyon with good cell service. Thankfully the crowd density here is nothing like Bryce and Zion. Our campsite is right beside the Canyon with the rim trail in our backyard. A full moon adorns the night sky. One day we drive to Point Imperial, a popular overlook. Although vehicles are supposedly restricted on this road to 22’ in length (we’re 21’), there appears to be no enforcement. In fact, length isn’t really the limitation here; it’s width, especially on the way to Cape Royal. The lanes are narrow and there are no shoulders. The vegetation grows right up to the edge of the lanes. (While the scenery at the North Rim is incomparable, the distant views don’t photograph well because of the haze.)
En route from the North Rim to Mesa Verde, we spend one night at Jacob Lake campground, an hour north of the Canyon, and one night with a Boondockers’ Welcome host in Shiprock, New Mexico. It’s a long drive across the Navajo Nation with few publicized camping spots. Our stay in a church parking lot in Shiprock (host not on site) is a bit of an education. After a belligerent person approaches our screen door asking for food we realize how vulnerable we are. In the future we’ll be more careful about camping in urban areas.
Perhaps there’s more rainfall in southern Colorado than in northern New Mexico, but it seems that the flora are mindful of the state line. The loveliness of Mesa Verde National Park complements its history and preserved pueblos. The valleys and hillsides are covered with low vegetation beginning to display autumn colors. On the National Park Service tour of the Cliff Palace, we hike down steep stone steps and narrow pathways to see the Ancestral Puebloan dwellings up close and learn about their origins.
https://www.nps.gov/meve/learn/historyculture/index.htm
It’s a pretty drive east from Mesa Verde. At this elevation the leaves have begun to turn, intermixing their colors with the remarkable hues of the Southwest. The city of Durango, Colorado makes us wish for more time in this area. Downtown is walkable and appealing with many independent businesses. There’s a western theme in designs and décor, but kitsch is thankfully kept to a minimum.
Heading back into New Mexico, we remark that the plant life has once again exited the stage. We stop by the “Aztec” ruins on the way to Navajo Lake State Park.
In Santa Fe we meet up with Tim’s brother and sister-in-law, Brent and Cris, and do the tourist thing: cathedrals, the state capitol, various landmarks. The following day we join them once more in Albuquerque for the Balloon Fiesta at sunrise.
Thanks to a forecast for freezing weather we head east a day early and camp one night at Storrie Lake State Park and then two nights at Clayton Lake & Dinosaur Trackways SP in northeastern New Mexico. We learn that the lakes and rivers in this region are drier than they’ve been in recent memory.
At least Oklahoma can say it’s more exciting than Kansas. We stay at Corps of Engineers campgrounds, Fort Supply Lake and Washington Irving South, before Arkansas welcomes us with its rolling countryside, autumn leaf colors, and the Buffalo National River. Buffalo Point campground is quite nice although it lacks internet.
Tomorrow we move on to T.O. Fuller SP near Memphis followed by Cedars of Lebanon SP east of Nashville. Then, on Halloween, home to Asheville where so many projects await us. We’ll reunite with our LTV Wonder and find a new home for this Coachmen Nova that has served us so well on this trip.
July 2023 A different Pard will be accompanying us on our Fall trip Out West. We bought a Coachmen Nova C three weeks before our departure date and now we’re hastily preparing it for the trip. The design, quality, and factory support have been a pleasant surprise. Given that it’s four feet shorter and a foot narrower than our Leisure Travel Wonder (still in the shop!), we’re getting really creative with space. Here’s a link to our new van:
https://coachmenrv.com/nova/20C/7528
Spring 2023 After two days of our intended two-month Spring trip, we returned home. Here’s why:
Yes, we’re heartbroken, but unhurt despite having been inside when the tree fell. Fortunately, after the tree was lifted off by a wrecker, Pard could be driven back to Asheville. Now we’re awaiting an estimate for repairs that may include replacing the entire roof in one piece (shipped from Canada). It’s taking forever. Meanwhile, we’re actively searching for a replacement RV in case Pard can’t be repaired in time for our Fall trip. There is a silver lining: this is the first Spring we’ve spent in Asheville in three years and it’s absolutely gorgeous!
During our two days at Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, we enjoyed a great hike from the campground to Skylight Cave, about three miles round trip. In our experience, most caves of this depth aren’t open to the public other than through a tour. We explored some of it, carefully, by the light of our iphone flashlights. Next time we’ll bring headlamps and galoshes.
March 2023 Our Spring trip is imminent but it’s the Fall trip to the southwestern US that generates most of the challenges and excitement. Although it hasn’t exactly been a walk in the park (!), we’ve managed to get campground reservations at Arches, Bryce, Zion, North Rim, and Mesa Verde National Parks. Trip planning reveals so many intriguing things to see and do. Enjoy this video tour of Round Spring Cave at the Ozark National Scenic River in Missouri:
https://www.nps.gov/ozar/park-videos.htm
January 2023 Winter reservations at Florida State Park campgrounds aren’t easy to come by, which is why (along with Covid) we haven’t camped in Florida until now. Florida allows reservations up to eleven months in advance and some popular campgrounds, like Anastasia, book up winter RV sites within seconds of their becoming available. (PS: We now have reservations at Anastasia for January 2024.)
Although Florida can be reached in one day from Asheville, we stick with our preferred pattern — three or four hours of driving and three or four nights of camping. Dreher Island SP, near Columbia, SC, is a return visit for us. Many sites are waterfront, yet the park and the lake don’t seem as appealing as they did two years ago. Perhaps we’re a bit fatigued from the trip preparations but I wonder whether all of the outstanding experiences we’ve had on our travels have raised the bar. Still, we enjoy the moon over the water; walks to nearby coves; and a chilly afternoon in the inflatable kayak.
South of Savannah is a pleasant surprise, Ft. McAllister State Park. The foliage leaves no doubt that we’re in the southeastern US: live oak, saw palmetto, spanish moss blowing in the breeze. These provide privacy between sites without an overgrown or weedy appearance. This peaceful campground is on an island reached by a causeway through the lowlands. Only campers have access to the causeway as well as to a boat launch, docks, play area, and hiking trail on the island. We see lots of deer, birds, and squirrels on our walkabouts. The causeway is great for hiking, biking, and sightseeing, while the main area of the park includes the visitor center, fort ($), small museum ($), riverfront, and another hiking trail.
I’ve been telling Autumn that she would like Florida:
At Juniper Springs campground in Ocala National Forest, we had hoped to paddle the spring-fed Juniper Run, but inflatables aren’t permitted and the park no longer rents boats. It’s not the end of the world though. There are pretty settings around the park even though the boardwalk trail along the river is closed and in need of major repairs. We’re able to spot the NASA rocket launch from a clearing in the day use area. At sunset one evening, the mill waterwheel is operating. From the downstream side of the mill, it’s mesmerizing to watch the sun shining through the water that’s dripping from the spinning paddles, at the same time the light is bouncing around the saw palmettos. The air is a bit too cool to swim in the main spring but an otter puts in an appearance after everyone else has left the area.
Planning for this trip included the reservation of a pontoon boat for a small family reunion on the Harris Chain of Lakes in central Florida. I took a BoatUS course in preparation. It comes in handy during a near-collision on the Dora Canal, a lovely and popular waterway connecting Lake Eustis with Lake Dora. Navigating this canal is not for the faint of heart.
In the vicinity of the Harris Chain of Lakes:
At O’Leno State Park we have an “icing on the cake” experience so typical of camping. At the campsite next to ours is another RV that, like ours, is made by Leisure Travel Vans. A conversation reveals that they are also from Asheville — he a Rabbi — and we have much in common.
We return to Asheville via Ft. McAllister SP, which will become a regular stopover en route to and from Florida.
P.S. — In addition to the usual activities involved in returning home after extended trips, there’s a convergence of future camping trips requiring extensive planning and multiple reservations. Campground reservations are allowed eleven months in advance at Florida state parks, and six months in advance for those national park properties where we hope to stay this coming Fall in the Southwest. Further, I’ve procrastinated in making our Spring plans — deluded by the desire for more spontaneous travel and hopes that the competition for campsites is waning. A look at campground websites sets me straight. To handle the organization of three upcoming trips, we create an extensive spreadsheet (thanks Tim!) that’s turning out to be indispensable.