Fall 2025 No doubt about it — the devil is in the details. As our departure date approaches, a balance must be found between the big picture and all the supporting details. Prioritizing becomes the priority. Still, as with past trips, we barely wrap things up at home in time to hit the road for this 2.5 month trip.
First stop: West Virginia’s excellent Babcock State Park and its much-photographed grist mill. The first photo below is of the mill in May, 2022, just after a kayak passed by. This time around I hoped to get a shot that would include a paddler. Check out the second (current) photo.
The following photo isn’t great but it is a personal accomplishment. Using the Long Exposure option for Live Photo, the water becomes blurred but any movement of the iphone affects clarity. A tripod and remote would have improved it. I also had to figure out how to save it as a Still Photo in order to post it here.
After spending a day in Charleston, WV where Tim grew up, we stay briefly at Forked Run State Park in Ohio then continue to Wooster, Ohio where Tim went to college.
Taking advantage of the LTV Driveways program, we stay at a private home with its own airstrip about 15 minutes from Wooster. The College of Wooster is a real pleasure to tour with its superb architecture, landscaping, and atmosphere. Tim has lots of tales to tell about the time he spent here (but I’m not allowed to repeat the best ones). In an annual winter tradition, students fill up this arched hallway with snow.
On to Ohio’s Mohican State Park – a great spot for families to camp, bike, and float down the river. It’s an August weekend and, as to be expected, tightly packed and noisy.
The Henry Ford Museum has been on Tim’s bucket list for ages. I’m pleasantly surprised by the variety of activities and exhibits, from steam engines to dollhouses. The campus seems to be as large as Disney World.
Heading north toward the Upper Peninsula, we spend Labor Day weekend at Tawas Point State Park. Michigan is full of peninsulas, and this one is positioned between Saginaw Bay and Lake Huron – a very lovely spot. The original lighthouse is no longer operational because the water receded so much that a second one had to be built. The water has receded significantly since then. Lake Huron is surprisingly clear and there are good beaches here.
Five-mile-long Mackinac Bridge is where the action is in Michigan every Labor Day, when thousands of people led by Governor Gretchen Whitmer walk over the bridge. We arrive after the crowds have dispersed, crossing from Mackinaw City to St. Ignace where Straits State Park awaits.
Perfect weather and flat calm for our ferry rides between St. Ignace and Mackinac Island. Shepler’s Ferry Company sends complimentary shuttles to nearby hotels and campgrounds, allowing Autumn to spend the day undisturbed at our campsite. Mackinac Island claims to be a throwback in time given its Victorian architecture and ban on motorized vehicles. However, the density of tourists and the shops that cater to them undermine the old-fashioned theme. Still, it’s a charming town with many photo ops.
A deeper dive into the Upper Peninsula begins tomorrow. Not being sure of the availability of supplies and connectivity, we’re stocking up on groceries and propane. While still in Asheville, we signed on to cell phone plans with US Mobile that allow us to change networks based upon coverage maps. To maximize our options, Tim is set up with Verizon; I’m with AT&T. So far, so good.
The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum at Whitefish Point is a detour off our route to Tahquamenon Falls, but it’s a good starting point for this part of our trip. We learn how and why “the Graveyard of Lake Superior” claimed so many ships, including the Edmund Fitzgerald. This begins our introduction to a complex and fascinating lake.
https://www.michiganpreserves.org/whitefish-point-underwater-preserve
https://www.nytimes.com/2025/10/10/arts/edmund-fitzgerald-gordon-lightfoot.html
From John Bacon’s book, The Gales of November about the Edmund Fitzgerald, “The Great Lakes can be more treacherous than the oceans. One reason is the distinct structure and frequency of the freshwater waves. There’s no salt to hold down the waves, so they rise more sharply and travel closer together. These waves don’t roll; they peak, crest, then crash down on whatever is unlucky enough to lie below them.”
At Tahquamenon Falls State Park we stay at the Rivermouth campground, close to the location where the river empties into Whitefish Bay. It would be ideal for paddling – with a launch close to our campsite – but the weather is completely unpredictable. It seems to alternate every fifteen minutes between sunshine and blowing rain. Another quote from Bacon’s book: “Weather on the Great Lakes ranks among the world’s most erratic.”
To reach the main section of the park, including the upper and lower Falls, a half-hour drive from Rivermouth campground is required.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is on many bucket lists. We stay for three nights at the Hurricane River campground (marginal cell coverage except at the lighthouse; no hookups; no showers; no flush toilets; no dump station; but wonderful). Lake Superior’s wild and rocky beauty is breath-taking.
Shorter drives than usual between campgrounds allow us to do more sightseeing in this awesome region. We spend some time in the Miner’s Castle area on the way to the Bay Furnace campground west of Munising.
Spending six days in the Pictured Rocks area allows us to watch the weather and choose the best day and time for a boat tour. Booking only a couple of days in advance is feasible for weekdays in September. Tip: the rocks are mostly viewed facing east, so an afternoon or sunset visit is preferable. While the tour is very nice, IMHO it’s not worth the risk to travel here for a specific tour only to have it cancelled because of the weather. Lake Superior has a mind of its own, although the following photos belie its rambunctious potential.
A couple of remarks on the route west. The interesting town of Marquette is worth a visit and has a food co-op for healthy groceries. There’s also a Tractor Supply for RV propane tank fills. For a short stay, L’Anse Township has a nice park with so-so campsites. The Houghton-Hancock area of the Keweenaw Peninsula is a pleasant surprise. Don’t miss Peterson’s fish market for delicious Lake Superior whitefish.
And now for Copper Harbor and Ft. Wilkins state park. With the exception of Isle Royale, this is the northernmost point in Michigan and well worth the drive. Ft Wilkins park is situated along Lake Fanny Hooe and across the road from a bay of Lake Superior, with the town of Copper Harbor right nextdoor. This is one of the most charming spots on our trip. Across from our campsite is a place for launching our kayak on the lake. While marginal cell coverage can be found by the flagpole at the fort, wifi works at our bathhouse and at the picnic table of the campground host. He tells us that this piece of paradise has a downside during the summer — bugs so thick that netting is needed to go outside.
Continuing west we stay at Union Bay campground in the Porcupine Mountains (“Porkies”) State Park. Some of the campsites are right on Lake Superior’s elevated shoreline but are more likely to be muddy. From here we’re able to visit Lake of the Clouds twice. On the first day it’s too foggy to see the lake at all. On the second day the views are awesome. En route to Wisconsin we spend some time at Presque Isle, another popular feature of the Porkies.
Wisconsin’s Bayfield Peninsula is one of the prettiest stretches of Lake Superior coastline and is home to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. We camp at Washburn’s Memorial Park. It has two loops – one more open and one more wooded. Both are attractive and well-maintained. From Bayfield there’s a ferry to Madeline Island where we rent electric bikes from Motion to Go and ride to Big Bay State Park. In hindsight, we should have asked more questions about the bikes because the “electric” part wasn’t much help. Renting mopeds would have allowed us to see more in a shorter period of time for about the same price.
Another day we take the Apostle Islands Grand Tour Cruise. This tour is entirely on board and winds through the various islands. It’s an excellent 2.5 – 3 hour history lesson. Most of the islands are very similar in appearance – primarily wooded – but Devil’s Island is known for it’s sea caves and Raspberry Island has an historic lighthouse property.
On to Gooseberry Falls, north of Duluth MN and a bit of a detour from our route. While Duluth is known for its industry – and there’s plenty of it – to the north the downtown area and nearby neighborhoods are attractive and well-planned with many parks and historic buildings. It’s here that we discover UMD’s Limnology Building. Limnology? – “the study of inland aquatic ecosystems”. Lake Superior is a worthy subject.
https://news.d.umn.edu/news-center/articles/limnology-building-preserved
Gooseberry Falls State Park is worth the detour. At one end of the campground are the Upper, Middle and Lower Falls, while at the other end is Lake Superior. There are good trails and appealing CCC structures within the park. Our last contact with Lake Superior this trip, I’m feeling sad to leave it’s clear waters, untamed moods, remarkable history, and rocky whimsical shoreline.
Check out the Thompson Hill Information Center southwest of Duluth for a panoramic view of the St. Louis River. We proceed to another of Minnesota’s large well-designed state parks, Jay Cooke. Good campsites; very clean bathhouses; trails wide enough for cross-country snow skiers to pass; AND the mesmerizing St. Louis River.
The remainder of our time in Minnesota is divided between Wild River State Park on the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway and Whitewater State Park near Minnesota’s southeast corner. The river at Wild River isn’t wild at all. Apparently it once was:
https://www.nps.gov/media/video/view.htm%3Fid%3D3152E376-2A11-4420-8323-1138CFC695A1
A paddlewheel boat tour on the St. Croix is necessarily shortened due to low water. We pass Interstate Park and, on the Minnesota side of the river, campers are present as are kayaks on the riverfront. This campground would have been our choice if we hadn’t seen online that it closed 9/30, which turns out to be incorrect. There’s also an Interstate Park on the Wisconsin side of the river. Tip: state parks in Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota require daily entry fees for both day-use and camping (in addition to the campground fee). Sometimes an annual pass is more economical than the daily rate.
Moving on to Wisconsin, our next stop is Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin. Interior photos are permitted here, which isn’t true of many FLW properties.
https://www.taliesinpreservation.org/taliesin-history
Taliesin is in the Driftless region of Wisconsin – an area that the glaciers didn’t reach during the last Ice Age. The Fall colors seem particularly vibrant here. Is there a connection?
We spend one night with a Boondockers Welcome host in Madison, giving us the opportunity for a suicidal sightseeing drive through the bustling mash-up of buildings, traffic, construction, and people, especially university students. The Unitarian Meeting House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, is worth a visit. Hours are limited.
From Madison, our itinerary has changed because of the government shutdown. Instead of heading mostly south toward Mammoth Cave National Park, we travel southeast to Illinois’ Kankakee State Park; Ohio’s Caesar Creek SP and Shawnee SP; followed by Virginia’s outstanding Natural Tunnel SP (not Natural Bridge).
Kankakee is a large park south of Chicago with a wonderful bike path along the river. We’re surprised to find Frank Lloyd Wright’s Bradley House nearby.
Caesar Creek SP has a decent campground but it would benefit from more trail maintenance. During our stay on the weekend before Halloween, locals continue to arrive towing large trailers full of decorations. It seems to be an established tradition.
Shawnee SP has lakes, trails, CCC structures, and a pretty good campground if you’re careful choosing your site. Many are not level and many have short driveways, intended for tent campers. This is a vast area thanks to the surrounding state forest. Cell service can be found in the lodge parking lot and near the campground office.
With so much to offer, Virginia’s Natural Tunnel SP has become one of our favorites. Of the two campground loops, Lovers’ Leap is preferable with more privacy and vegetation. Campsites on this loop are relatively spacious and level. Good trails are nearby including one to the Lovers’ Leap overlook. Legend has it that two Native American lovers from rival tribes jumped from this point.
The Natural Tunnel day-use area includes the visitor center, and a chairlift down to the tunnels. The chairlift operates Friday through Monday so we’ll miss it this trip, but the hike downhill is very nice in itself.
Home for the holidays, we’re making plans to spend January in Florida; Spring in the Outer Banks and southern Virginia; and Fall of 2026 traveling around Lake Michigan, including more of the Upper Peninsula.
Spring 2025 A shorter than usual Spring trip – 5.5 weeks – takes us to some old favorites as far north as southwestern Pennsylvania. Our loop includes Little Oak in Tennessee; Greenbrier State Forest, Watoga State Park, and Stuart Recreation Area in West Virginia; Deep Creek Lake and Rocky Gap State Parks in Maryland; Ohiopyle and Laurel Hill State Parks in Pennsylvania; and Big Meadows and Cave Mountain Lake in Virginia. All are worth a visit, or more. Here are some highlights:
Born in Charleston WV, Tim and his family often vacationed in Watoga State Park in eastern West Virginia. It’s so beautiful here that Tim’s aunt and uncle ultimately bought land and built a cabin across the Greenbrier River from the park. In fact, from some of the Watoga campsites you would end up on the property of Uncle Joe and Aunt Peg if you swam across the river. That’s a big IF in springtime when the river is higher and faster. For this reason the Great Greenbrier River Race is held on the fourth Saturday of April each year, taking advantage of the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail, formerly a railroad. Based in Marlinton, WV the race includes a three mile run, four mile paddle, and ten mile bike ride.
http://www.wvstateparks.com/park/greenbrier-river-trail/
Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania has a similar vibe to Marlinton, WV — gorgeous scenery and outdoor athleticism. Ohiopyle boasts a river-adjacent rail trail, the Great Allegheny Passage, as well as numerous hiking trails and some serious whitewater. The campground is located a few miles by road from downtown Ohiopyle, or about a half mile uphill by way of the Ferncliff Peninsula, bridges over the “Yawk” river, and steep trails through the forest.
Also in southwestern Pennsylvania are residences designed by Frank Lloyd Wright: Kentuck Knob and Falling Water. Kentuck Knob is privately owned and maintained, though no longer occupied. Falling Water is owned by the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy and appears to be a maintenance nightmare.
We love Maryland’s 50% off campground fees for seniors (even out of state) on weekdays. At Deep Creek Lake State Park, we see something we’ve never seen before. There are several campsites occupied by a group of mountain bikers … camping in ambulances!
En route to Big Meadows in the Shenandoah National Park we pass through the charming town of Winchester, Virginia. I can imagine living here for its historic beauty; Tim can imagine living here for its tasty bakery, Knead Bread.
Our third time at Big Meadows and its still a treat. We made reservations a little after the six month window opened and ended up staying in three campsites during our four-night visit. No problem though. We liked the variety and with no hook-ups it was easy to move. Internet can be found at the lodge and the upper end of the day-use area. There’s no propane within an hour’s drive so four nights is about our maximum.
Cave Mountain Lake is truly a hidden gem. Located near Natural Bridge, Virginia, it’s almost empty during the week before Memorial Day weekend (but fully reserved for the long weekend). There’s almost no internet, although a text message may show up somewhere along a remote hike. We did find a bench beside the lake (about a half-mile from the campground) where we could get one-bar Verizon.
Cave Mountain Lake was a good conclusion to our Spring trip and now it’s nose-to-the-grindstone time during our Summer in Asheville. Most reservations have been made for a 2.5 month Fall trip as far north as Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands, and as far west as Minnesota’s eastern regions, followed by another visit to Mammoth Cave.